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Roofing

Roof replacement, repair, and storm-damage assessment. We match you with up to 4 vetted local contractors who verify their license and insurance with our network.

By HomePros editorial·Reviewed by licensed contractors and home-services industry experts.·Last updated May 8, 2026

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Roofing is the highest-stakes exterior decision a homeowner makes — large dollar amount, long replacement cycle (15-50 years depending on material), and the failure modes (leaks, structural rot, mold) are expensive to fix after the fact. The fundamentals split cleanly: when you actually need a new roof versus a repair, what material is the right call for your climate and budget, and how to hire a roofer who does the job right rather than the cheapest one.

This page covers what to know before scheduling: when replacement is the right call vs. repair, the four main roofing materials (asphalt shingle, metal, tile, slate) and the climate-and-budget framework for choosing, how storm-damage insurance claims actually work, and how to read a roofing quote that does not pad. We connect homeowners with vetted local roofers — licensed contractors with current insurance and verifiable referenceable work.

When replacement is the right call (vs repair)

Most roofing service calls start as "I have a leak." The right starting question is whether the leak is a localized failure that can be repaired, or a symptom of system-wide end-of-life that needs full replacement.

The replacement-is-right situations: asphalt shingle roof past 18-22 years (architectural) or 15-18 years (3-tab) with multiple leaks or visible granule loss; metal roof with widespread rust or panel separation; tile roof with broken tiles across more than 10% of surface and sub-roofing felt past life; any roof with visible deck rot from prolonged leaks; widespread storm damage (hail, hurricane, wind) where the insurance adjuster has totaled the roof; and any roof where multiple repair attempts have not held.

The repair-is-right situations: localized leak in an otherwise sound roof under 12-15 years old; isolated wind damage on otherwise intact shingles; flashing failure at a single penetration (chimney, vent, skylight); and storm damage limited to a portion of the roof where partial replacement is feasible.

The judgment call: a 15-year-old shingle roof with a single leak is the case where competent roofers disagree. A repair buys 3-7 years; replacement buys 20+. The math depends on whether you plan to be in the house long enough to need replacement anyway, whether the rest of the roof is showing wear, and whether the repair cost is meaningful relative to replacement.

The four main roofing materials

Most US residential roofs are one of these four materials. The right choice depends on climate, structural deck capacity, budget, and aesthetic.

  • Asphalt shingle (architectural / dimensional) — the dominant US residential material. 18-30 year service life. Lowest upfront cost. Wide installer base. Adequate for most climates. The default unless there is a specific reason to choose otherwise.
  • Metal (standing seam, exposed fastener) — 40-70 year service life. Higher upfront cost (often 2-3x asphalt). Excellent in snow climates (sheds load), wildfire zones (Class A fire rating with appropriate underlayment), and high-wind exposure. Lower installer base; choose carefully on installer experience.
  • Tile (clay or concrete) — 40-60+ year service life. Very high upfront cost. Heavy (requires structural deck capacity). Common in Southwest and Southeast. Requires specialist installer.
  • Slate (natural or synthetic) — 75+ year service life on natural slate. Highest upfront cost. Heaviest material. Specialist installer required. Common in historic districts and high-end residential.

Storm damage and how insurance claims actually work

Storm-damage roof claims follow a specific pattern most homeowners encounter once or twice in a lifetime. Understanding the process before you need it saves money and frustration.

The sequence: the homeowner notices damage (missing shingles after a storm, leak in the ceiling, visible hail strikes on metal flashing or AC unit). Document everything with photographs immediately, before any cleanup or repair. Contact the insurance carrier and request an adjuster inspection. The adjuster comes out and writes a scope-of-loss — the line items they will pay for.

The adjuster's scope is rarely the same as a roofer's replacement scope. Adjusters tend to under-scope; roofers tend to over-scope. The right move is to have a licensed roofer present for the adjuster inspection (or a public adjuster representing the homeowner). The roofer documents code-required upgrades, current pricing, and items the carrier scope missed. A negotiated supplement is then submitted.

The legitimate insurance claim path includes: deductible (homeowner pays first), depreciation withheld until work completed (released after invoice), and code-upgrade allowances when local code requires upgrades not in the original installation. Watch for: carriers offering cash settlements that include depreciation, contractors offering to "eat the deductible" (usually fraud and may void the policy), and anyone door-knocking with "we noticed your roof" (out-of-town storm chasers, lower quality install, harder to get warranty service).

For large storm-damage claims, hiring a public adjuster — a licensed insurance professional who represents the homeowner for a percentage fee (typically 10-15% of recovery) — often results in net-better outcomes than negotiating with the carrier directly.

Reading a roofing quote

A quote that does not break out these line items is hiding scope. Ask for them.

  • Tear-off — number of layers being removed (most jurisdictions cap at 2 existing layers before requiring tear-off to deck)
  • Deck inspection — what happens if rotted decking is found (typical pricing per sheet of OSB or plywood replacement)
  • Underlayment — synthetic vs. felt, ice-and-water shield extent (eaves, valleys, penetrations)
  • Drip edge and starter strip — sometimes upgraded as code requirement, often missed
  • Flashing — chimney, valley, sidewall, vent, pipe boots — line-itemized
  • Ventilation — ridge vent, soffit vent, gable vent — adequate ventilation is required for warranty validity
  • Material grade — asphalt shingle has class ratings (3-tab, architectural, premium architectural / impact-rated)
  • Workmanship warranty — separate from manufacturer's material warranty; 5-year minimum for reputable installers, 25-year for premium installers
  • Manufacturer's warranty — limited or system warranty (system warranty requires entire roof system from one manufacturer, much better coverage)
  • Cleanup — magnetic-roller sweep for nails, dumpster placement and removal, landscape protection
  • Permit — building permit cost called out separately, not bundled invisibly
  • Insurance certificate — current general liability and workers' comp specific to roofing work

Common roofing-install failures

Patterns that show up in 5-10 year follow-ups on roofs installed badly:

Under-ventilated attics. Inadequate ridge-vent and soffit-vent area causes shingle aging acceleration (heat baking from below shortens service life by 30-50%) and ice-dam formation in cold climates. The math is published — net free area requirements per square foot of attic. Most cheap installs short on this.

Missing or inadequate ice-and-water shield. In freeze-climate markets, ice-and-water shield must extend at least 24" inside the heated wall plane (more in heavy-snow zones). Shortcuts here cause leaks during ice-dam events that nothing else prevents.

Flashing failures. Chimney flashing, valley flashing, and sidewall flashing are where 80% of leaks originate. Plastic-cement-only chimney flashing fails within 5-7 years; proper step-flashing with counter-flashing lasts 30+ years. Most low-bid installs use the cheap option.

Nail placement. Shingles have a nail line; nails should land in that line. High-nailing (above the line) means the shingle is held by less material and is more vulnerable to wind uplift. Low-nailing (below the line) leaves nail heads exposed to weather. Both fail early.

Incomplete tear-off. Some installers cut corners by overlaying new shingles on existing — code allows up to 2 layers in some jurisdictions but the practice masks deck issues, accelerates aging through trapped heat, and voids most manufacturer warranties.

Subcontracted crews without supervision. Many large roofing companies subcontract install crews paid per square. The crew has incentive to work fast, not well. Check whether the company you hire actually has its own crews or uses subs.

Frequently asked questions

How much does a new roof cost?

Cost depends on roof size (square footage of roof surface, not house footprint), pitch and complexity (steeper and cut-up roofs cost more per square), material grade, tear-off scope, underlayment specification, ventilation upgrades, and regional labor rates. Asphalt shingle replacement on a 2,000 sq ft house typically runs across a wide range depending on complexity. Metal, tile, and slate run 2-4x asphalt. The form on this page connects you with vetted local roofers who quote firm after measuring the roof.

How long does a roof replacement take?

Most asphalt-shingle replacement on a typical residential roof is a 1-3 day project depending on roof complexity, weather, and crew size. Metal, tile, and slate are slower — typically 3-7 days. Weather windows matter; reputable installers will reschedule rather than install in rain or sub-40°F temperatures (asphalt shingle adhesive does not seal properly in cold).

Is my roof a candidate for repair or full replacement?

Asphalt shingle roofs over 18-22 years old with multiple issues are typically replacement candidates. Metal roofs with widespread rust or panel separation. Tile roofs with broken tiles across more than 10% of surface. Any roof with visible deck rot from prolonged leaks. For roofs under 15 years old with localized issues, repair is usually the right call. Get an inspection from a roofer who quotes both options and can explain the math.

How do roof storm-damage insurance claims work?

Document damage with photographs immediately. Contact the insurance carrier and request an adjuster inspection. Have a licensed roofer present for the inspection (or a public adjuster). The adjuster writes a scope-of-loss; supplements can be negotiated for code upgrades and missed items. Watch for: out-of-town storm chasers, contractors offering to "eat the deductible" (usually fraud), and unusually fast settlements. For large claims, a public adjuster (licensed professional, percentage fee) often results in net-better outcomes.

What roofing material lasts longest?

Slate (natural) — 75+ years. Tile (clay or concrete) — 40-60+ years. Metal (standing seam) — 40-70 years. Asphalt shingle (architectural) — 18-30 years. Asphalt shingle (3-tab) — 15-18 years. Service life depends heavily on installation quality and ventilation; a poorly ventilated architectural shingle roof may fail at 12 years.

Should I worry about a roofer who wants to "eat the deductible"?

Yes. Insurance fraud — illegal in nearly every state. The carrier paid for a specific scope at a specific price including the deductible. A roofer who "eats the deductible" is either bidding the work for less than they claimed (fraud), inflating the claim to cover it (fraud), or both. The practice is also a strong predictor of poor install quality. Walk away.

What is the difference between a manufacturer warranty and a workmanship warranty?

Manufacturer warranty covers the material itself (defects in shingles, metal, tile). Workmanship warranty covers the installation quality (leaks caused by improper flashing, nail placement, etc.). Both matter. A 30-year manufacturer warranty on shingles installed badly is worthless for the first 10 years where workmanship issues will appear. Ask for both warranties in writing, with specific terms.

How do I find a good roofer?

Verify license and insurance (general liability + workers' comp). Check at least 3 referenceable jobs in your area, ideally from 5+ years ago so workmanship has been tested by weather. Confirm the company uses its own crews vs. subcontractors. Check warranty terms in writing. Use the form on this page to get free quotes from vetted local roofers who meet these criteria.

Sources and references

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